How to Keep Poinsettias Growing Until Next Christmas

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Co-authored by Clark Hill

Last Updated: December 6, 2025 Approved

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Basic Poinsettia Gardening

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Foolproof Flowering

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Q&A

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Tips

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Warnings

If you want to keep that poinsettia you bought this year over until next year, here's what to do. Just in time for Christmas!

Method 1

Method 1 of 2:

Basic Poinsettia Gardening

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Most plants won't show bugs in the greenhouse, but they will show up after about two weeks in the home. If the plant is infected, it is best to throw it out and purchase another for keeping over.^{[1]
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If you want to keep over a particular plant, several applications of soapy water to the plant and potting soil should rid it of most infestations. Mealy bugs are the main concern and can be removed by dabbing them with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. However, this should be done before the infection spreads or gets too large, or you may never kill them all.^{[2]
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Position the poinsettia. Place the plant in a cool (not cold) room with curtain-filtered sunlight, and cut back on the watering. The plant should be allowed to go dry to the touch between waterings and be watered only sparingly. Over-watering is the leading cause of plant death in the winter months inside, when the plant is not actively growing and is not taking up the normal food it would during the growing season. If watered too much, the plant will end up sitting in water and develop problems like moss, mold, rot or leaf yellow.^{[3]
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Clark Hill. Plant Specialist & VP of Operations, Platt Hill Nursery.}When the temperatures at night get above 10° C (50° F), the plant can then be moved outside.^{[4]
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- Poinsettias are sensitive if you expose them to temperatures below 50 °F (10 °C).^{[5]
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  Clark Hill. Plant Specialist & VP of Operations, Platt Hill Nursery.}
If a small bushy plant is your goal, the entire plant should be trimmed down to a few inches above the main trunk. If you want a larger plant, simply pinch the tops of each main branch and continue this until about July. If a topiary is your goal, remove all of the branches except for the tallest, straightest main branch and do not pinch the plant on the top, just remove the side shoots for the remainder of the season.^{[6]
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Doing this will cause what leaves are left to scorch and fall off and may kill the weakened plant. Place the plant in full shade. Two weeks later move the plant out of the shade to part shade, then two weeks later to full or part sun for the remainder of the season. This will allow the plant to harden off and get used to the new conditions outside.
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Start watering regularly. Fertilize every fifth watering or every two weeks (whichever comes last) with a poinsettia fertilizer or house plant fertilizer. Or, if you would like, try a diluted evergreen fertilizer to help promote leaf growth. At this stage all you want is leaf growth, no flowers.^{[7]
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- Avoid overwatering, since your poinsettias could develop root rot.^{[8]
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  Clark Hill. Plant Specialist & VP of Operations, Platt Hill Nursery.}
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When it is time to bring the plant in for fall, start the process of turning the top leaves red (or pink or whatever color they were last winter). This can take up to 2 months and sometimes longer, depending on conditions and the variety of plant you have.^{[9]
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- Switch from a nitrogen-based fertilizer to a houseplant fertilizer or one made for poinsettias, and reduce fertilizing by half.
- Begin the routine of long nights/short days needed to initiate buds: 13 hours of uninterrupted darkness, 11 hours of bright sunshine each day. Keep temperatures in the low 60's (F) at night. Turn the pot regularly for even light. (Note: Darkness must be total - light from a street lamp or even that cast by headlights from passing cars is enough to disrupt bud formation.)
- Discontinue darkness routine after about 2 months, and place the plant in the sunniest window in the house. Reduce fertilizer, and don't over-water!

Method 2

Method 2 of 2:

Foolproof Flowering

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Depending on your climate, poinsettias tend to do better outside than in, so grow them outside where they get partial shade in the afternoon. If it gets too hot and dry, their growth might slow.^{[10]
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You will never get that "store bought" look again, as they are literally tree sapping. If you want store-bought-looking plants, take cuttings from your plants from late April up until you bring them inside to flower. (You can still flower the parent plants.) Use rooting hormone if you want, but poinsettias seem to root well naturally in compost made from yard waste like grass clippings.^{[11]
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The time you want the poinsettia to be fully flowering and how you intend to care for it after flowering determine when you start flowering them. If you want them in full bloom by late November, start in early October. Start by late October if you want flowers for Christmas. You can start earlier, but you need to maintain light timing to keep them flowering throughout the season.^{[12]
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Choose a spot without any light.^{[13]
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5
Use warm white CFLs or warm white fluorescent tubes. It's necessary to use "warm white" as opposed to regular grow lights, because the plant needs the extra red light; this, plus the timing, will ensure flowering.^{[14]
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- Make sure you have enough light. One 26-watt CFL (100-watt equivalent) for two or more plants won't be enough. Use one 26-watt CFL per cutting, about 1½ feet above them. Make sure you can adjust the height, as they will grow fast during flowering.
- HPS lights can be used, too. Be careful with HPS lights, though, as local law enforcement might think you are flowering another Mexican plant with the same light cycle! HPS light gives off signatures that can be used to help track unlawful botanists.
A good method is to use banking hours, 9am to 5pm. Do not disturb the plants when the lights are off. While 14 hours of darkness is said to be enough, 16 hours works well with warm white.^{[15]
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7
Check for flowering indicators. The first sign they have begun to flower is what you might call "rusting out". This is when the top leaves think it's autumn. Leave the plant under the light until it has fully flowered.^{[16]
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- You may want to leave the plant in your makeshift nursery the whole season and bring it out whenever you want to display it.
- The plants you buy this year would be good to take cuttings from next year, so put them in the nursery, too.
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Don't let the plant have more than 10 hours of light a day. That way you'll keep it flowering long after the season is over. Take good care of it: keep the plant watered properly, keep it away from whiteflies, and give it plenty of light during its day cycle. Given this care, the plant can flower well into spring!^{[17]
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- If the plant flowers too long, put it under artificial light 24 hours at a time to get it to vegetate. You may find that some plants will still have flower buds on when you place them outside for the summer.

Community Q&A

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Question

What is the white liquid that oozes if a branch is broken?

Community Answer

Poinsettia are actually small trees in the wild so they produce sap, which is what you are seeing. It is poisonous to many insects (not all). It can also irritate sensitive skin, so don't touch it without washing your hands afterwards.

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How to get rid of white flies infested on my poinsettia plant?

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Make a solution of dishwashing soap and water, and spritz it on the plants to get rid of the flies.

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What do I do for an over-watered plant?

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Put it in a hot spot and avoid watering it. Make sure it can drain. You could push down the soil, like you would a sponge, if it is in a pot. If it is summer, it has a better chance to dry out. It might not work if it has been wet too long.

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Tips

Don't get discouraged if it doesn't come out as well as you hoped; there's always next year.

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Watch out for pests and mealy bugs.

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Keep the plants out of cold drafts. Don't put the plant by a frequently opening door.

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Warnings

Some experts believe that poinsettias are toxic to some animals, so keep pets away from them.

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Do not let children handle the plants.

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