Q&A for How to Care for a Fig Tree

The soil around a fig tree should be moist to the touch but never soaking. They need about an inch of water a week so water accordingly to your local climate and weather.

A lack of water is most likely to blame for yellow leaves. However, it could also be due to a lack of nitrogen in your soil which can be remedied with fertilizer.

To produce fruit, a fig tree needs to be in the direct sunlight. Be sure to plant your tree in a spot that receives plenty of natural sunlight.

An 8-8-8 or a 10-10-10 fertilizer blend is optimal for a fig tree. Fig trees should be fertilized only intermittently when slow growth is noticed.

Fig trees can sustain winter if the freeze period isn't too long. You can help the tree by adding some dirt on the stump to avoid strong freeze for the roots.

It’s a good idea to let a few leaves grow on each branch - more than 4 on one new branch should be pinched off at the sign of its new growth, before it can mature and take away nutrients from the tree.

No, fig tree only produces fruit on branches that are 1 or 2 years old. If you cut new branches, you won't have any figs.

Yes, you should cover your fig tree if it is not fully hardy for your micro-climate or if temperatures routinely drop below its hardiness. In Brooklyn, many figs survive outdoors but will benefit from winter protection, especially on exposed sites. For ground-planted trees, you can mound 12–24 inches of mulch or soil over the root crown, wrap the trunk with burlap and/or insulation, or build a breathable frame covered with horticultural fleece.

You can rejuvenate hard-to-manage fig trees through careful hard pruning. For a safe single-season cutback, remove up to one-third of the canopy; for more severe rejuvenation, cut back two-thirds to a framework of 2–4 main scaffold branches or 12–24 inches above the soil, noting that this may result in reduced or late fruit but vigorous regrowth next year. For very old or overgrown trees, you can coppice (cut to near ground level), but this is a higher-risk option, so consider pruning only one stem the first season to assess recovery. Always prune in late winter while dormant, making clean cuts, sterilizing tools, and mulching or fertilizing to support regrowth.

You can protect your fig tree from freezing temperatures by following several steps. Consider mounding 12–24 inches of soil/compost or 6–12 inches of straw/leaves over the root crown. Wrap the trunk with burlap or tree wrap, adding insulation like horticultural fleece for extra protection. For ground-planted trees, you can build a frame to keep covers off the foliage, draping breathable fleece or burlap over it, ensuring plastic does not touch branches. If your fig tree is potted, move it to a sheltered spot, insulate the pot sides with bubble wrap, and mulch the rootball.

Yes, you should bring your potted fig tree indoors for winter, especially in cold climates like Long Island, before the first hard freeze (when night temperatures consistently drop below 25–28°F), typically between late October and mid-November. Gradually introduce it to indoor conditions, then place it in a bright south-facing window or under a 150–300W LED grow light for 10–14 hours daily. Maintain temperatures between 50–65°F, increase humidity with a pebble tray or humidifier, and reduce watering to only when the top 1-2 inches of soil are dry.

You should check for several likely causes including overwatering, underwatering, low humidity, insufficient light, root shock, or pests/disease. Test soil moisture: the top 1-2 inches should be slightly dry. Use a free-draining potting mix. Provide bright, indirect to some direct sun (4–6 hours) or a grow light. Raise humidity via a pebble tray or misting. Gently check roots for rot and trim black, mushy parts. Inspect leaves for mites/aphids and treat with insecticidal soap. Avoid fertilizer until roots are robust.

Yes, you should train your fig tree. Perform this task in late winter (dormant) or early spring by selecting 2–4 strong vertical leaders as main scaffold branches and removing competing stems. Tie these selected leaders to a sturdy stake or espalier wires using soft ties, allowing for slight flex. Shorten lateral branches by 1/3–1/2 to encourage upward growth and new laterals higher on the stem.

To encourage your tall, leggy fig tree to become bushier, prune it in late winter while it is dormant, shortening 2–4 strong scaffold branches by 1/3–1/2 to promote lateral shoots. Decide whether to remove low suckers for a single trunk or encourage them for a multi-stemmed bush. In spring/summer, pinch or prune new shoots when they are 6–8 inches long to force branching, and thin congested growth to improve light and air. Ensure moderate feeding (avoiding high nitrogen) and full sun exposure to support healthy, bushy regrowth.

Epsom salt (magnesium sulfate) can help if your fig shows a confirmed magnesium deficiency (yellowing between veins on older leaves); otherwise, it's usually unnecessary. If you decide to use it, apply 1 tbsp per gallon of water as a foliar spray monthly for 2–3 treatments, or 1–2 tbsp per foot of trunk diameter worked into the soil in spring.

You should prune your fig tree if you observe leggy growth with few lateral branches, crowded or crossing branches, dead, diseased, or damaged wood, or if you need to control its size. Pruning can also address reduced fruiting or help achieve a single-trunk form by removing suckers.

You should place your container fig tree where it receives 6–8+ hours of direct sun, ideally with a south or west exposure. Create a warm micro-climate for it near a sun-warmed wall or on a patio that retains heat, and ensure it is sheltered from strong cold winds and late spring frosts. For good drainage, place the pot on pavers or feet rather than directly on soil that retains water. Consider using a wheeled cart to easily move it indoors or to a sheltered spot for winter, and ensure some air circulation to reduce disease while avoiding constant drying winds.

Yes, you can leave them outside, but it is riskier than ground planting. To improve survival, you should move the pots to a warm, sheltered spot, insulate them thoroughly, and mulch the rootball with 2-4 inches of straw or leaves. For small pots, consider moving them indoors or into an unheated garage (50-40°F), and always reduce watering to keep the soil slightly moist.

You should act quickly to save your fig trees, as the symptoms suggest root loss or rot followed by desiccation. Gently lift each plant and inspect the roots; trim any soft, black, or rotted tissue until you reach healthy, white, firm roots. Replant them in fresh, well-draining soil (e.g., 40% loam, 30% compost, 30% perlite/sand) at the same depth, mounding slightly for drainage. If few roots remain, take 2–3 hardwood cuttings as a backup. Water thoroughly after replanting, then keep the soil evenly moist (allow the top 2–3 inches to dry before watering again). Provide shade for 1–2 weeks, avoid fertilizer until recovery, and mulch 2–3 inches to conserve moisture and protect from wind. Monitor for new growth, understanding that recovery can take several weeks.

Yes, many wild and some cultivated figs require tiny fig wasps (Agaonidae) for pollination. However, most common edible figs (Ficus carica cultivars sold for backyard growing) are "common" types that set fruit parthenocarpically and do not need wasps. Smyrna-type figs do require specific wasps.

Your figs may be dry and lack flavor due to insufficient heat or sun, excess nitrogen, inconsistent watering, or harvesting them too early. To improve flavor, ensure your fig tree receives 6–8+ hours of sun, maintains consistent deep watering, and is allowed to fully ripen on the tree. You might also consider checking for root stress, using a cultivar suited to your climate, and avoiding high-nitrogen feeds mid-summer.

Yes, removing some lower leaves and shoots can encourage upward growth and a fuller canopy at the top. When pruning, carefully remove only yellowing or crowded lower leaves first, and prune low shoots at their origin to direct energy to the main leader. For shaping, selectively shorten lower branches by one-third to one-half, making clean cuts with sterilized tools. Always avoid removing more than 20–30% of the foliage at once to reduce stress.

Yes, you can take cuttings from a fig tree as they root reliably. During late winter/early spring or the dormant season, take hardwood cuttings 8–12" (20–30 cm) long with 3–6 nodes from healthy wood, making clean cuts below and above a node. Plant them vertically or angled in a free-draining mix (e.g., 50:50 potting soil/perlite), burying 2–3 nodes. Keep them moist in bright, indirect light at 65–75°F (18–24°C) until roots form in 4–8 weeks, then transplant them after strong root growth.

Your fig fruit is likely not ripening due to insufficient sun exposure or cooler temperatures, which impede sugar development. To promote ripening, ensure your trees receive 6-8+ hours of sun daily, consider pruning surrounding shade, and use a south-facing wall or dark mulch to retain warmth. Additionally, adjust your feeding schedule to a low-nitrogen, high-potassium fertilizer in late summer, maintain consistent deep watering, and avoid harvesting figs until they are very soft on the tree.

Common reasons & fixes: Insufficient chill/heat or too little sun; move to full sun (6–8+ hrs) or a warmer microclimate. Excessive nitrogen; reduce high‑N feeds; stop or cut back fertilizer in spring & use low‑N, higher‑K bloom fertilizer mid‑season. Prune to encourage fruiting wood; leave 2 to 4 strong main branches & avoid heavy spring pruning that removes fruiting spurs. Provide deep, well‑draining soil; repot if rootbound. Note that some varieties fruit later or need several years; try a known productive cultivar. Keep even moisture, avoid stress. Inspect and treat pests/disease. Place in full sun, cut back high‑N feeding, and leave fruiting wood—most figs fruit within 1 or 2 seasons afterward.

Yellowing leaves after moving indoors typically result from changes in light, watering, or environmental shock. To help your fig tree survive winter, place it in the brightest available south/southwest window, supplementing with a 150 to 300-watt-equivalent LED grow light for 10 to 14 hours daily if light is insufficient. Reduce watering frequency, ensuring the top 2 or 3 inches (5 to 8 cm) of soil are dry before watering again, and avoid soggy roots. Maintain humidity with a pebble tray or small humidifier, keeping temperatures between 50 and 65°F (10 to 18°C), away from hot radiators. Remove any dead or yellowing leaves and weak shoots to minimize stress. Inspect for pests like scale or spider mites and treat with insecticidal soap if found. In spring, gradually acclimate the tree before moving it back outdoors.

For outdoor winter cover, use breathable, insulating fabric like horticultural fleece or burlap wrapped over a frame. Construct a simple frame with stakes or wire to make sure the cover does not touch the foliage. Wrap the trunk with burlap or tree wrap for added insulation. In cold or exposed locations, apply 2 to 4 inches of mulch around the root zone and consider adding straw or leaves inside the base. Avoid using plastic directly on branches, as it can trap moisture and cause rot. If you have potted figs, insulate the pot sides with bubble wrap and move them to a sheltered location.

Yes, you should cut basal shoots in early spring if you desire a single-trunk tree. Remove them back to the root crown when they are still small (2 to 6 inches / 5 to 15 cm) so the main leader can establish. If you prefer a multi-stem bush or more productive trunks, keep 2 to 4 vigorous shoots and remove the rest. For grafted trees, remove any suckers that originate below the graft union, as these are rootstock. Always sterilize your tools, make clean cuts, and mulch after pruning.

Yes. Fig trees shed leaves seasonally and in response to stress. Most commonly, deciduous varieties drop leaves in autumn/winter. In warm climates, some are semi-evergreen and hold leaves longer. Stress-related shedding can be caused by drought, overwatering, transplant shock, pests, or nutrient deficiency. Leaf drop often precedes new growth (new flushes). If sudden or excessive drop happens in the growing season, check water, roots, pests, and soil nutrition.

Reduced ripening from less sun and cooler weather (sugars need heat/sun), over‑fertilizing nitrogen (fish emulsion weekly can promote leafy growth and dilute fruit sweetness), uneven watering, or early harvest. Instead, stop high‑N feed in mid‑summer, switch to low‑N/high‑potassium fertilizer in late summer, ensure consistent watering, expose the tree to more sun if possible, and allow figs to fully ripen on the tree. For next season, cut back fish emulsion to monthly or suspend after June.