How Do You Know if Antique Cameo Jewelry Is Real?

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Look for these signs to tell if a cameo brooch or ring is authentic

Co-authored by Jerry Ehrenwald and Dev Murphy, MA

Last Updated: December 13, 2025 Fact Checked

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• Signs a Cameo Is Real
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• Painted Cameos
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• What are cameos?
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• FAQs
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• Video
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• Q&A
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• Tips

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The cameo is a very elegant piece of jewelry that has recently come back into fashion, but due to its popularity, there are more realistic knockoffs nowadays than ever before. It can be difficult to tell when a cameo is an authentic antique piece or a modern-day imitation, but thankfully, with a little detective work, you can figure out if your ring, brooch, or necklace is the real deal. Keep reading for signs your cameo is authentic, with advice from antiques expert and appraiser Reyne Hirsch.

Easiest Way to Tell if a Shell Cameo Is Real

An authentic shell cameo will be translucent when held up to the light. The carving will also feature delicate markings, which are visible under a loupe. If the cameo features a portrait, the person will likely be facing to the right. To be sure your cameo is real, have it appraised by an antique jewelry expert.

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Section 1 of 4:

Signs a Cameo Is Real

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   Transparency Shell cameos are very thin and transparent. Hold your cameo up to the light: if it's slightly see-through, it might be an authentic shell cameo. If it's not transparent, it's probably a fake.

   • Keep in mind that fine plastic cameos may also be transparent, so transparency itself isn't a sign of authenticity—but if the piece isn't transparent at all, you can bet it's not an authentic shell cameo.
   • If your piece is made from stone or another thicker material, it likely won't be transparent.
   • As a general rule, any carved cameo made from a natural material can be considered authentic, but the majority are made of shell. Some other materials used include agate, carnelian, onyx, ivory, lava, coral, jet, bone, mother of pearl, and various gemstones.

   Meet the wikiHow Expert

   Reyne Hirsch is an antiques expert, appraiser, and the co-owner of the Dallas Auction Gallery in Texas. She has over 25 years of experience and specializes in 20th-century decorative arts, luxury goods, and jewelry.
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   Fine cracks and crazing Look at your cameo using a loupe or magnifying glass. A real shell or porcelain cameo will likely show fine cracks, while a plastic or resin cameo probably won't.
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   A face pointing to the right An authentic cameo can feature a face pointing in any direction, but the majority of antique cameos will have a figure facing right. If your cameo features a face pointing to the left or facing forward, it doesn't necessarily indicate that it's a fake—it just might not be quite as old.

   • Since figures on authentic vintage cameos can face in any of these three directions, this alone is not an indication of authenticity.
   • If you have other reasons to doubt whether or not the cameo is real, though, the fact that the figure faces left or forward instead of right could give you further reason for doubt.
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   A straight or Roman nose If your cameo features a portrait, observe the facial features. Many authentic cameos will include facial features associated with the era in which they were created:

   • Portrait cameos that have a straight nose are usually from the Victorian era.
   • Portraits with strong, "Roman" noses are usually dated before the 1860s.
   • A nose that looks "cute" or button-like usually indicates a newer cameo created in the 21st century. If the nose is turned up and the features are flat, it could be a sign that the cameo is fairly modern and likely created with lasers, making it non-authentic.
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   Delicate markings from carving tools Inspect the cameo's carving under a jeweler's loupe or very strong magnifying glass from the front. If it's real, you should see very delicate markings or indentations from the artist's carving tools, which indicate that the cameo was carved out of a shell. On the other hand, plastic has a much more uniform and smooth appearance, since it isn't carved.

   • Plastic cameos will likely have tiny bubbles that formed when they were cast. Real, carved cameos will not.
   • Carve marks will usually follow the lines and curves of the design. Scratches that do not appear to follow these lines are usually just scratches and should not be perceived as an indication of authenticity.
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   Intricate details While some authentic cameos are plain, many valuable antique pieces will include finer details on the carving or painting. These features usually include things like earrings, pearl necklaces, loose curls, and flowers.

   • Note that some details can actually indicate when a piece is fake. For instance, many laser-cut imitations have a faint white band near the outer border of the piece.
   • Some authentic cameos will be set in 14K or 18K gold frames. Silver and gold-filled metal frames are also common. This is not always the case, however, and many have no settings at all.
   • These frames may also be further decorated with valuable stones, but this, too, is not always true.
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   A concave back Hold the cameo face down and brush the back with your index finger. If the cameo is made from real shell, you should feel a slight concave or curve.

   • Shells have a naturally curved surface, so a cameo carved from a shell will usually have this curve, as well. The curve might be slight, though.
   • This does not necessarily apply to natural carved cameos made from stones or other materials.
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   Matte finish While gems are typically prized for their shine, with cameos, it's the opposite. Authentic shell or stone cameos will have a matte sheen, while imitations will usually have a glossier surface.

   • This is true of most carved cameos, in fact, since many natural materials are difficult to buff after being carved.
   • Some authentic stone cameos might be slightly shiny, however, so this is not a foolproof test.
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   C-clasp pin Flip the cameo over and look at the pin on its back. An antique or vintage piece will usually have a plain "c-clasp" on it. With a "c-clasp," the brooch pin loops under a crescent-shaped piece of metal. There is no roll-over fitting there to keep the end in place.
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    Quality mark indicating gold content Check the setting for a quality mark indicating the piece's gold content. Not all authentic cameos will have this, so don't be worried if your piece doesn't. But if it does, it's probably the real deal.

    • Have the setting tested for gold content to confirm its authenticity.
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    Lightweight Plastic and glass cameos tend to be set in heavy base metals. As a result, they are usually heavier than shell cameos.

    • This is not always true, however, so weight alone is not a good indication of authenticity.
    • Many stone cameos are naturally heavier than shell cameos, as well.
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    Cool temperature Hold the cameo in your hand for 30 seconds or so. A real shell cameo will feel fairly cool (as will a stone), but a plastic piece will quickly warm up due to the temperature of the room and the heat of your skin.

    • You could also hold the cameo to your wrist or chin. These areas are generally a little cooler than the palm of your hand and may give you a more accurate indication.
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    Solidity Gently hit the cameo against your tooth and listen for the sound it produces. If it sounds dull or hollow, it is likely made from plastic.

    • In contrast, a cameo that sounds fairly solid is likely made of stone or another natural material.
    • Be careful when performing this test. Do not strike the piece against your teeth too hard since doing so could damage your tooth or the cameo.
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    Uniqueness A real cameo is one-of-a-kind, since it's hand-carved. Google plastic cameos to see if yours is a match: if yours comes up, it's likely it's been mass-produced.

    • Exploring fake cameos online can also help you to familiarize yourself with them more generally. This will make it easier to identify real cameos when you come across them. As Hirsch advises, "The more knowledge [about antiques] you build, the more you can recognize value."
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    Confirmation from an expert In the end, fake cameos and real cameos can be difficult to tell apart, and many of the signs listed in this article aren't strong enough indicators on their own that a cameo is authentic. When in doubt, it's best to take your cameo to a reputable antique jewelry dealer so they can examine it.

    • Be careful relying solely on a certificate of authenticity to tell if your cameo is real or a knockoff. As Hirsch points out, "[C]ertificates of authenticity can be made by anyone. Unless they come from a well-established expert or auction house, they don’t mean much."
    • You can find a reliable auction house to consult by searching on LiveAuctioneers.com, Hirsch explains: "If [an auction house uses] LiveAuctioneers—and nine out of ten do—you'll be able to see past auctions, what items they've sold, and what kind of money they’ve been able to get for them."
    • "That gives you an idea of how many followers actually pursue their auctions and browse their catalogs," Hirsch continues. "You can get a sense of whether they have a strong, loyal customer base or not."
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Section 2 of 4:

Signs a Painted Cameo Is Real

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   Few scratches and chips Examine the paint or enamel on the decorated front surface of the piece. The number of deep scratches and chips should be few, if any.

   • The quality of paint and enamel used by vintage artisans is usually more durable than that used by counterfeit manufacturers nowadays. Real cameos were made to last, so the design should be fairly intact.
   • This is also an indication of value. Scratched designs cause the value of the cameo to decrease.
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   Signs of wear Even though the damage to the cameo should be minimal, an authentic piece will not look new. Observe your piece carefully using a jeweler's loupe or magnifying glass. Expect to see faded colors, a few light scratches in the paint, and other signs of wear.

   • As a general rule of thumb, if the painting and the piece itself look sparkling new, it probably is.
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Section 3 of 4:

What are cameos?

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1. 
   A cameo is a piece of art carved with a raised relief. They usually depict a woman's profile or a scene from mythology. Cameos are usually worn as earrings, brooches, bracelets, rings, or pendant necklaces, and were incredibly popular in Victorian England—though they actually originated as early as the 5th century BC! Authentic cameos are usually made from shell, but they may also be made from coral, stone, or lava, and are set in gold or silver. Some cameos are painted; painted cameos are typically made of shell or porcelain.

   • Real cameos can be worth a lot of money, with some antique cameos selling for hundreds or even thousands of dollars.
   • However, imitation cameos have circulated the jewelry market for about a hundred years, having become popular as costume jewelry in the 1930s and '40s. They can be tricky to spot—but not impossible!
   • Knockoffs are usually set in a base metal and constructed from molded plastic, resin, or glass. Unlike real cameos, imitations are not hand-carved and are rarely worth much money.
   • Some people refer to small portraits appearing on brooches or other types of jewelry as "cameos," even if the piece hasn't been carved. By definition, a cameo must be carved. That being said, if you're interested in how to tell if a painted cameo is authentic, check out the section above.

Section 4 of 4:

Frequently Asked Questions

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1. 1
   Are real cameos worth anything? Yes. Authentic cameos can sell for hundreds or even thousands of dollars. The most valuable cameo, an 18th/19th-century stone brooch designed for Caroline Bonaparte, Napoleon's sister, sold for $67,000 in 2015 (of course, the history attached to this brooch definitely raised its value).

   • What determines cameo worth?
     • Material: Stone cameos are worth more than shell cameos, because stone is harder to carve and because shell cameos are more prevalent.
     • Scene: Depictions of scenery tend to be worth more than portraits.
     • Intricacy: Regardless of whether a cameo is made from stone or shell, the intricacy of the design will boost the piece's worth. A simple design will be worth less than a more complex one.
     • Wear: Antiques are likely to be worn. If a cameo looks "brand new," it's likely fake. But if an authentic cameo is chipped and cracked, it won't be worth as much as one that's been kept in good condition.
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   Who is the lady on cameo jewelry? Many different women have been featured on cameos, including queens, goddesses, Biblical figures, and figures from mythology. Men have been featured, too! Bespoke cameos may feature portraits of someone the buyer knows. But often, the portrait on a cameo isn't of anybody in particular.
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   Can a fake cameo be an antique? It depends on how old the fake cameo is. "Antiques" are generally classified as being 100 or more years old, while "vintage" items are often classified as being between 20 and 99 years old. Fake cameos became widespread in the 1930s and '40s as costume jewelry knockoffs became popular, so if you found a cameo brooch or pendant in your great-grandma's vanity, it may not be an antique yet—but it's probably close.
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• Question

  Does the number 925 mean anything on a cameo?

  

  Community Answer

  The number 925 means it contains sterling silver.

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• Question

  Where can you get antique cameos appraised?

  

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  Look for jewelry appraisers at city antique shows, especially those who carry cameos for sale.

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• Question

  My cameo is at least 125 to 150 yrs old. How do I know if the material is conch or ivory?

  

  Community Answer

  If it is ivory, it will have become yellow by now; the darker the colour, the older the ivory (be careful some people purposefully colour it). You can also burn a needle till it is red/white hot and poke it -- if it is genuine there will be no mark.

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Tips

• Consider taking the cameo to a professional jeweler for appraisal. It is nearly impossible for an amateur to determine the real market value of a cameo, so if you want to know how much the piece is worth, you should ask a professional. Do so after you are fairly certain of the cameo's authenticity to save yourself time and money.
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• When buying a cameo, go through a reputable dealer. In particular, look for a dealer who accepts some level of accountability for the authenticity and value of the merchandise. These sources are more likely to inspect pieces beforehand and only sell real, high-quality work.
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