How to Take Out a Sink Drain or Sink Stopper

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Pro plumbers share how to remove and replace a leaky sink drain

Co-authored by David Balkan and Eric McClure

Last Updated: November 5, 2025 Fact Checked

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• Disconnecting the Drain
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• Removing the Strainer
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• Installing a New Strainer
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• Removing a Stopper (No Disassembly)
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• Video
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• Expert Q&A
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• Tips

|Show more |Show less

If you hear a “drip, drip” from underneath the kitchen sink when it’s full of dirty dishes and water, there’s a good chance you have a leaky sink drain (often called a sink strainer). The sink strainer is the metal, funnel-shaped contraption that pressure seals to the sink from above and below, and it will eventually either spring a leak or get so scratched and discolored that you’ll want to replace it. To help guide you through the process, we met with professional plumbers David Balkan and Greg Jeiranyan to get their insight on the ideal way to do this without breaking your back (or the bank).

Removing a Bathroom or Kitchen Drain

Professional plumber David Balkan says that you only need two pipe wrenches or channel locks to disconnect the pipes below the drain. Once unlocked, you can gently force the drain pipe out from below to replace it. Apply a ring of plumber’s putty around the drain and press the new drain in place.

Steps

Method 1

Method 1 of 4:

Disconnecting the Drain Pipe

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1. 
   1
   Loosen the coupling nut that connects the strainer to the drain pipe. Sink strainers are always made of metal, but most modern homes have white PVC drain pipes. You’ll find either a PVC or a metal coupling nut connecting these two components beneath your sink. Balkan says to loosen this nut by hand or with a wrench to separate them.

   • You should be able to loosen a PVC nut by hand, turning it counterclockwise. Wrap a towel around the nut to help you get a better grip on it. A metal nut may also require a pipe wrench or a large adjustable wrench.
   • If you wish, you may also be able to disconnect the drain pipe at the top of the trap (the U-shaped bend) in order to give yourself more room to work with.

   Meet the wikiHow Experts

   David Balkan is a professional plumber and CEO of a sewer, water main, and drain cleaning business.

   Greg Jeiranyan is a licensed plumber with over 10 years of experience handling commercial service calls.
2. 
   2
   Stabilize a spinning strainer in order to remove a stubborn nut. If the strainer is spinning counterclockwise along with the nut as you loosen it, hold it still from above. Insert a pair of needle-nose pliers or a sink drain wrench down into the sink and pinch the strainer grate (not the removable strainer basket) to immobilize the entire strainer. Balkan does suggest being careful if you want to reuse the parts, though, since older pipes and fittings can crumble if you use too much pressure.

   • You may be able to hold the pliers with one hand and loosen the nut with the other, or you may need to recruit a helper.
   • If you have trouble squeezing the pliers, you can also insert the handles of the pliers into the openings of the strainer grate, then stick a screwdriver between the handles and hold it steady to immobilize the sink strainer.
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3. 
   3
   Inspect the strainer to determine what kind of strainer it is. There are three types of strainers, and removal is slightly different for each of them. Locknut sink strainers have a large locking nut that feeds onto threads on the outside of the strainer itself. This, in turn, presses a washer and gasket against the underside of the sink. Most modern sinks have locknut sink strainers.

   • There are also retainer-type strainers with screw attachments, in which 3 or 4 screws are used to help hold the locknut tight against the underside of the sink.
   • Bell washer sink strainers have an outer bell-shaped “shell” that fits over the entire strainer. This bell housing is pressed against the underside of the sink by a nut located at the bottom of the strainer (just above the nut that connects to the drain pipe below).
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Method 2

Method 2 of 4:

Loosening and Removing the Sink Strainer

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1. 
   1
   Remove the screws in the locknut if your strainer has them. If you see threads around the widest section of the strainer (where it connects to the sink), you have some version of a locknut strainer. If you also see 3 or 4 screwheads against the locknut, you need to remove these screws before loosening and removing the locknut and strainer. A simple screwdriver will do the trick.

   • Once you remove the screws, loosen the locknut by hand. Turn it counterclockwise until it comes off the threads and slides down off the strainer.
   • If the screws are hard to turn, then spray some WD-40 onto them and wait 5 minutes. This should help loosen them.
   

   Rex Cauldwell, Licensed Master Plumber

   Removing old sinks drains is doable with some tools and effort. Start by loosening the locknut and detaching the tailpipe below. Carefully remove the strainer from above, catching water in a bucket. With the drain freed, with proper sealing a new assembly can be installed directly. Follow each step methodically and have a leak-proof drain for years to come. Even first-timers can handle it themselves.
2. 
   2
   Use a wrench to loosen a traditional locknut strainer. If your locknut isn’t held tight by screws, you’ll need a wrench to loosen it so that you can remove the strainer. Use a large pipe wrench or a specialized strainer locknut wrench. Turn the locknut counterclockwise with the wrench until it spins freely, then turn it by hand until it unthreads and falls off the sink strainer.

   • If the locknut is completely rusted in place and simply will not come off, hire a plumber. They’ll likely have to cut the drain with a saw, but that’s not a DIY job.
3. 
   3
   Loosen and remove the nut at the bottom of a bell washer strainer. Take the same wrench you used to loosen the nut that held the strainer to the drain pipe, and loosen the same-sized nut that pushes up against the bell-shaped housing. Work the nut off the threads and out of the way, and then pull the bell housing down and off of the strainer.

   • If the bell housing refuses to pull free easily, wedge a flathead screwdriver into the gasket sandwiched between the bell and the underside of the sink. Pry the bell housing free and pop it off.
4. 
   4
   Wiggle the sink strainer loose and push it up and out of the sink. A moderate jiggle and twist should break the seal between the upper lip of the strainer and the rim of the topside of the sink. Then, push upward from the bottom of the strainer with one hand and pull it up and out of the sink with the other hand.

   • If the strainer won’t break free, tap it from the underside with a mallet until it pops loose. If you have to bash too hard, so be gentle.
   • Scrape away any dried putty or other gunk from the rim of the sink (both above and below) if you intend to install a new strainer. Use a plastic putty knife so you don’t scratch the stainless steel finish.
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Method 3

Method 3 of 4:

Installing a New Sink Strainer

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1. 
   1
   Roll out a ring of plumber’s putty and place it around the sink opening. Grab a small handful of plumber’s putty out of its container. Work it around in your hands for a few minutes to warm it and make it more pliable. Once it’s about the consistency of children’s clay (like Play-Doh), roll it into a “snake” about the thickness of a pencil, then press the ends together to make a ring. Place this ring over the rim of the opening on the topside of your sink and then use your thumbs to push it down all the way around the rim.

   • Clean away any old putty from the sink surface with a plastic putty knife.
   • Plumber’s putty must be room temperature to work with it. If it’s cold or hot for some reason, just leave it out for a few hours before using it.
2. 
   2
   Press the new sink strainer firmly down into the putty ring. Whether you’re installing a bell washer or a locknut strainer, this part of the job is the same. Press down firmly, so the plumber’s putty squeezes out all around the rim. Use your fingers, a plastic putty knife, and a damp rag to clear away the excess putty.
3. 
   3
   Set the washers and gaskets in place under the sink. A metal-to-metal connection between the sink bottom and the locknut or bell housing won't be watertight. The new sink strainer will come with at least one rubber gasket, and possibly other gaskets or washers made of rubber, cardboard (to protect the rubber), or other materials. Place them as directed in the product instructions before tightening the locknut or bell housing.

   • If you're reinstalling an old sink strainer, take the old gasket(s) to the hardware store and buy identical (but new) replacements.
4. 
   4
   Secure the sink strainer into place from below. For a traditional locknut strainer, use a large pipe wrench or strainer locknut wrench to tighten the locknut (by turning it clockwise). Securely press the strainer against the underside of the sink, but don’t feel like you have to tighten it so much that the parts seem ready to fuse together.

   • For a locknut strainer with screws, you only need to hand-tighten the locknut into place. The provided screws are what will press the locknut tight and hold the connection together.
   • For a bell washer strainer, place the bell housing over the strainer, then feed the provided nut onto the threads at the bottom of the strainer. Use a wrench to tighten this firmly (but again, not excessively).
5. 
   5
   Connect the drain pipe to the sink strainer. Balkan says you can fit everything together by hand or with a wrench. If you have a PVC nut for making the connection, you’ll only need to hand-tighten it. If the nut is metal, use a wrench to firmly secure it in place.
6. 
   6
   Test for leaks. Plug the sink and fill it with water. Wait a few moments, then run a tissue around the connection between the underside of the sink and the sink strainer’s locknut or bell housing (depending on the type you’ve installed). If the tissue gets damp at all, your putty seal is the likely culprit, and you’ll have to redo the installation.

   • If this spot passes the “tissue test,” let the water out of the sink and run a dry tissue around the nut that connects the strainer to the drain pipe. If it stays dry, you’re good to go!
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Method 4

Method 4 of 4:

Removing a Sink Stopper

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1. 
   1
   Try twisting the cap on the stopper counterclockwise. Jeiranyan explains that many stoppers just thread into place. Grab the stopper by hand and try turning it counterclockwise. If it pops off, you may be able to remove the entire thing and pull it out.

   • You may not be able to remove only the stopper. This should work for most pop-up drains, most foot lock stoppers, and many standard drains, but some drain stoppers are physically connected to the drain pipe. If that’s the case, you will not be able to remove the stopper without taking the entire drain out.
2. 
   2
   Disconnect the stopper rod if it won’t twist out by hand. If you twist the stopper counterclockwise and nothing happens, it spins in place, or only the cap of the stopper comes out, go under the sink and look for the rod that connects the stopper handle to the drain. Then, follow these steps:

   • Hold the drain in the open position. If you don’t have a helper or you can’t reach the stopper, slide a sponge in between the drain opening and the drain cap to keep it from locking.
   • Engage the drain stopper under the sink. Grab the rod connecting the drain stopper to the drain. Pull it down. You should feel it lock in place.
   • Unhook the rod from the drain inside the pipe. You may need to use a wrench or channel locks to unlock the rod assembly where it connects to the drain pipe. Once it’s open, disconnect it.
   • Lift the strainer and drain cap out by hand. With the drain rod unhooked, you should be able to lift it out by hand. If there is no rod or it still won’t move, you have a built-in drain stopper. Unfortunately, you’ll need to remove the entire drain pipe.
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Expert Q&A

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• Question

  Can I replace the drain in my sink myself?

  

  David Balkan
  Professional Plumber

  David Balkan is a Professional Plumber, CEO of Balkan Sewer and Water Main Service, and President of Balkan Sewer and Drain Cleaning. As a hands-on owner of these companies for over 40 years, David is knowledgeable about water service lines, sewers, and drain line issues. David is a Committee Chairman of the Master Plumbers Council and has sat on the Executive Committee of the Sub Surface Plumbers Association of New York for over 30 years. His knowledge and solution-oriented approach contributed to Balkan Sewer and Water Main Service being the largest and most trusted service in New York City and the recipient of the 2017 Angie’s List Super Service Award.

  

  David Balkan

  Professional Plumber

  Expert Answer

  Yes, this only takes some basic tools—maybe two pipe wrenches, or maybe a pair of channel locks. The only time it might be difficult is if it's a really old drain that's been frozen in place for a number of years. Otherwise, it should just unscrew, then you can replace the drain and screw it right back together. Just be careful not to break the fittings.

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Tips

• If you have a garbage disposal, you’ll need to remove it before you can access the drain pipe and complete the steps above.
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