Q&A for How to Sew Puff Sleeves

You can set your sewing machine to a wider stitch and then sew a line without reinforcing it. After sewing, gently pull the thread to create a gathering, which will add volume and puffiness to your sleeves. Additionally, you can use crinoline, which is a stiffer fabric, underneath the sleeves to enhance the puff effect. When cutting the sleeve pattern, make it wider than your actual size around twice, depending on your desired puffiness. Then, gather the fabric at the ends, just as you did at the top, to maintain a more consistent puff. 

Yes, but it would be extremely hard to sew, so it would be better to use a fabric like cotton.

Yes, you can create a puff sleeve without a sewing machine. You will need to draft the sleeve pattern with extra width for gathers, then cut and finish the raw edges by hand. Baste two parallel gathering stitches along the sleeve cap and cuff edge, pull the threads to gather evenly, and then secure them. Attach the sleeve to the bodice using small backstitches and finish the cuff by hand-sewing a hem or cuff band.

If you choose heavier fabric, be aware that it will change the look and comfort of your puff sleeves. You can expect less pronounced, more structured puffs, requiring more volume to achieve the desired silhouette, and potentially harder gathers and bulk. To manage heavier fabric, increase gather width, use deeper gathering stitches, and grade/trim seam allowances. Additionally, consider adding a lining or sleeve head shaping, and make a muslin mock-up to ensure proportions are correct.

To give a puff sleeve more height, you can add volume and support where the sleeve needs lift. Consider increasing ease at the sleeve cap by adding 1.5 to 3 times the armhole measurement, using more for bigger puffs. Use deep gathers, sewing two or three parallel basting rows to distribute fullness evenly. You can also add a sleeve head or puff padding by inserting a lightweight sleeve head, horsehair braid, or a layer of interfacing/batting at the cap.